NOTE: ALL garments come with handsewn buttonholes. Sizes 48-52 please contact us directly.
As of 05/15/2021, contact me for an update on current turn-around times.
Rush orders are an additional 20%
*Also note – some materials may not be available at the time of ordering. With that in mind, we will stay in touch*
Please contact us with your order HERE!
COATS, FROCKS, and JACKETS
Fatigue Blouse (Sack Coat)
*NOTE* – Sizes 46-52 please add additional $40
Commercial Variant – This coat will follow physical and pictorial evidence of details. This is the “base model”. Using high-quality cloth, thread, and buttons. 4-piece body, two piece sleeves.
UNLINED: $185 no seam felling; $275 w/ hand felling; $420 handsewn
LINED: $235 hand/machine
JT Martin – 1863 Pattern – (based on original used by a member of the 9th NY Cavalry) Dark Blue Flannel, Four General Service Eagle buttons, Tan thread, two-piece back, Lined in patterned cloth, Muslin sleeve lining, Large chest pocket, Corded buttonholes, Mostly machined w/hand details. $235
JT Martin – 1864 Pattern – Same as 1863 pattern, but with one-piece back, solid color (tan) cloth lining, and smaller chest pocket. $245
Pre-Contractor Accountability Coat – (Summer 1861 – Early 1862) – This coat will be made like a quickly manufactured coat would be. Wavy stitching, sloppy buttonholes, cheap flannel outer, and/or cheap cloth lining. It won’t be pretty, but it’ll look like the originals. Unlined Coat pockets will be made of scrap cloth, Lined Coats will have typical pocket stitching to coat fronts.
Unlined: $125 (no felling)
Enlisted Dress (Frock) Coat –
WARTIME CONTRACT DRESS COAT:
Broadcloth, quilted chest, polished cotton lining, General Service buttons, 2 tail pockets. Sizes 38/40/42/44 will be issue size. Sizes 46+ (or size 36 and smaller) will be made from a custom pattern for best fitment, and at additional cost due to needed materials.
Hastily made. This won’t win awards, but will follow details that I have viewed on 5 original coats. $500
BOYLAN CONTRACT DRESS COAT:
Broadcloth, quilted, 2 tail pockets, General Service Eagle buttons (Wambaugh & White/Waterbury types when available).
Sizes 38-44 $685
ORIGINAL-CLONE DRESS COAT:
Hainsworth doeskin broadcloth, hand-quilted, 2 tail pockets, Original General Service or Eagle “I” buttons, entirely handsewn, alpaca lining, Bespoke pattern with muslin toile(s) for personal fittings in Gettysburg, PA. This is the ultimate Army Dress Coat. Based on an original, viewed at the Mansfield Civil War Collector Show 2021, and sold by Union Drummer Boy of Gettysburg, PA. A 1-to-1 clone of the original.
Up to Size 50 $6000
NEW YORK STATE “EXCELSIOR” JACKET: Model 1861
FULLY LINED CONTRACTOR VERSION:
*Details based off of a documented 44th NYVI jacket, as well as photographic evidence. The jacket will be made out of Broadcloth, unless Flannel is wanted. Cloth piping will be standard. Corded piping upon request and availability only. Lining will be 100% Cotton twill or Drill cotton, as per the original 44th NY jacket. Buttonholes will be handsewn and corded. Left side belt strap, as per the original. Front pocket will be on wearer’s Left side, unless Right side is preferred. 8 large NY Buttons on the front and 2 small NY buttons at each cuff, and epaulets. This version will not feature darts in the front of the jacket, as the 44th NY example displays.*
Flannel – $245
Broadcloth – $275
HALF LINED CONTRACTOR VERSION:
*Half-lined jackets will be BY REQUEST (as of 4/2021). This example is based on the West Point Museum New York Jacket. Dark blue broadcloth will come standard, Flannel by request. Front half-lining will be made from Brown Cotton twill (or polished cotton, if twill is unavailable). The interior back seams will be covered with herringbone cotton tape, as per the original. Piping trim will be of cloth. 8 large NY Buttons on the front and 2 small NY buttons at each cuff, and epaulets. Left side belt strap, as per the original. *
Flannel – $265
Broadcloth – $299
SIZES 48 AND LARGER WILL BE SUBJECT TO AN ADDITIONAL FEE FOR NECESSARY MATERIALS.
Mounted Service Jacket – (not available at this time)
J.T. Martin/William Deering/M&R – Specify which Contractor you would like
sz: 32-42 -$265 machined and handsewn details (Dark Blue or Sky-blue version available)
Size: 44-50 – $295 machined and handsewn details (Dark or Sky Blue)
Schuylkill Arsenal Trousers – UNAVAILABLE.
“Mule Ear” Variant Trousers – By Request Only. Same pricing as above.
Mounted Trousers – UNAVAILABLE.
Bespoke Trousers – Made to your measurements and cloth requirements. Ask for pricing. Civilian or Military styles available.
Zouave Pantaloons/Chasseur Trousers – UNAVAILABLE.
“Gull Wing” Style – Mohair tape on Broadcloth
I offer three styles. Please specify which one you would like.
Gull-wing Short, Gull-wing Long, and Straight. Gull-wing Short uses 3/8″ tape. Long uses 1/2″ tape. Completely handsewn available upon request, at additional cost. Each pair will follow original examples from both extant and pictorial evidence. All branches are available upon request.
- Corporal – Short/Straight $32;Long$40
- Sergeant – Short/Straight $42; Long $50
- Orderly Sergeant (1st Sgt.) – Short/Straight $52; Long $60
- Ordnance Sergeant $57 (for regulation silk, please inquire)
- Sergeant Major $75 (for regulation silk, please inquire)
- Chief Musician (Please inquire)
- Zouave (Please inquire)
Non-Commissioned Officer Trouser Tape: Corporal – $20; or Sergeant – $30
**PLEASE STATE WHICH BRANCH WHEN PLACING ORDER**
Junior Officer Single Breasted Frock Coat – $670 ($400 deposit min.) base with no trim/straps/lacing (for options, see below)
Senior Officer Double Breasted Frock Coat – $850 ($500 deposit min.) base with no trim/straps (for options, see below)
Single Breasted Shell Jacket –
ENLISTED STYLE – $300 – Jean/Flannel
OFFICER STYLE – $500 – Broadcloth (for options, see below)
Double Breasted Shell Jacket – $500- Jean/Flannel; $800 – Broadcloth
Single Breasted Sack Coat – PRIVATE PURCHASE STYLE – $400 – Flannel; OFFICER STYLE – $475 – Broadcloth (for options, see below)
Double Breasted Sack Coat – OFFICER STYLE – $650 – Broadcloth (for options, see below)
Foot Pattern – High quality broadcloth or kersey available. Includes branch of service side-seam trim & japanned buttons. Bespoke pattern made to your sizing. $290 (sizes 30-39) $335 (sizes 40+)
Mounted Pattern – Unavailable
Extra pockets – please inquire
Shoulder Straps – please inquire and specify rank/branch. Single Border, Double Border (limited quantities), and Subdued Rank is available.
Velvet – $35 collar or cuffs
My most frequent requests.
At the moment, I am doing extensive research on a few different uniforms. I am going to offer two types: Reenactor Grade and Museum Grade. Reenactor grade is going what I typically call a “movie coat”, as from the outside it looks authentic, but there are many shortcuts taken on the inside, as a cost/time effective way to achieve the “look” without breaking the bank. I may even offer “kits” or “half-kits”. Half kits will include essentially a blank and you have to finish the details. Full kits will be the uniform cut out of all the materials in your size. Both kits will include access to a time-sensitive video instructional that will give you a step by step on how to make it.
Of course, Museum Grade uniforms will be near 1-to-1 clones. That being said, the cost will be significantly higher.
The eventual costs will reflect the materials, workmanship, and especially the research that went into making sure you are wearing a top-notch garment or item.
5th New York
9th New York
140th New York*
146th New York
*THESE WILL BE THE FIRST TO BE MADE.